Complete Guide to Caring for and Propagating Monstera Standleyana

• The Monstera standleyana features lanceolate and elongated leaves that taper towards the tip, are glossy, and exhibit a textured vein pattern, making them resemble philodendrons. It is often mistakenly referred to as the standleyana philodendron or cobra philodendron, although these names are not entirely accurate since they are not true philodendrons.
• Another significant characteristic of this species is its short white stripes and spots, which form unique patterns. Many new varieties have emerged from this peculiarity created by humans. One cultivar called Monstera standleyana albo variegata features completely white sections, making it a highly coveted and more expensive specimen than the common variety. Another example is the Monstera standleyana variegated white, which only has sporadic white patches.
• The leaves are stiffly oriented outward, typically with the tips pointing upwards.
• Leaves measure about 10 centimeters long, classifying them as small-leaf monsteras. As the plant matures, the leaves grow a few centimeters larger. To see bigger leaves, it requires support, like a wall, tree, or stake, as in its natural habitat, this facilitates growth.
• This species displays two distinct forms depending on its developmental stage. Juvenile leaves emerge directly from the soil, climbing upwards as they grow. Unlike some other monsteras, like M. adansonii, the stem remains relatively short with tightly clustered leaves. As a result, these plants produce dense foliage.
• The total plant height can reach up to 20 meters if allowed to grow freely, though indoors, it typically stays around 2 meters.
• It lacks the characteristic holes commonly found in the Monstera genus.

This plant was once rare and highly exotic, but it is now more widely available.

• M. standleyana should be placed in indoor spaces with filtered light, as direct sunlight will scorch its delicate leaves. It can be outdoors as long as it does not get direct sunlight.
• Maintain a temperature around 77 °F (25 °C), as it does not thrive in cold climates.
• For optimal placement, keep it near a window. You can set it up as a hanging plant or use a support to allow it to climb, ensuring a compact shape.

Prepare a universal substrate mixture using equal parts of peat and worm castings, and add a handful of perlite, tepojal, vermiculite, or gravel to promote good soil structure with excellent drainage, minimizing the risk of root rot.

Apply a superficial layer of worm castings to the substrate twice a year as fertilizer, or alternatively, you can use liquid fertilizer.

This plant does not require much watering, making it a great choice for those seeking beauty without a lot of maintenance. Water it once a week.

However, the plant depends significantly on humidity, so misting the leaves frequently can help, especially in dry environments. Without enough humidity, leaves may start to become rough and curled.

Pruning is not essential for this plant, but it is advisable to remove any leaves showing signs of age to prevent energy waste on declining foliage.

This climbing plant can grow several meters long, so regular pruning helps to keep it smaller and more manageable.

This plant propagates effectively through cuttings in hydroponics, developing roots easily due to the presence of aerial nodes.

1. First, wash and sterilize the scissors you will use to cut the stem.
2. Choose a healthy plant with at least one leaf to ensure the new growth can develop.
3. Make a cut above a node so you can place it in a glass of water. New roots will appear within a few weeks.
4. Transfer the cutting to soil with a well-prepared substrate, watering thoroughly during the first weeks to ensure adequate hydration during establishment.

The cuttings can be used to create a new plant or added back into the original pot to enhance its volume. The best time to propagate is during spring, when the plant is growing strongly.